These peaks are part of the Manang
Himal, which are quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal,
the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in
a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and
Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and
the Mesokanta La. To the west its limit is the Kali Gandaki and to
the north the Parchekya La (5,447m/17870ft).There exists considerable
confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks
and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since
it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range
that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the
Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the
sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group,
two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on
the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking
map is highly misleading.
The highest of these peaks, marked Chulu West (6419m/21,054ft) on
the trekking maps, has a recorded altitude from at least two expeditions
of nearer 6400m (20,997ft); this might more accurately be called
Chulu Central. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) gives
this an official altitude of 6,429m (21,060ft). Many climbers are
confused as to the exact location of these two peaks as the range
has 4 or more summits in the immediate vicinity which are unmarked
in maps of this area. As a result many climbing parties have mistakenly
climbed one of these peaks thinking it to be Chulu East or West.
It usually understood that with the permit to climb the East or
West peak an attempt can be made to the nearby peak as well.
A climb of one or both of these peaks combined
with Nepal's most famous Around the Annapurna trek make up for one
of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings.
Allow about 25 to 30 days to complete this climb and trek.
Chulu West :
The obvious approach to this peak diverges from the main trail to
the Thorung La pass past the village of Manang and Base Camp is
established in a small valley to the North. From base camp the route
follows a subsidery North-West ridge that leads up to the main peak.
An attempt to the peak and return has be done in a single day as
setting camp up on the slope above base camp is not easy. An attempt
of Chulu Central peak (6,429m/21,060ft) just east of Chulu West.
Chulu East :
The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route to climb this
peak from a Base Camp on the moranis at 5334m (17500ft). Most climbers
make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although
some have, in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below
the peak. Another subsidery peak called Chulu Far East (6059m) 19880ft)
may also be attempted from this approach.
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